Who This Guide is For
If you're managing a pool hall, outfitting a game room for a client, or replacing cloth on a table you intend to sell—and you've landed on Simonis as the brand—you're probably staring at the color swatch sheet wondering if "Tournament Blue" is actually worth the premium, or if something like "Camel" or "Maroon" would look better and hold up just as well.
This guide walks you through the three critical factors I check when specifying cloth for a project. I review roughly 200+ cloth installations annually—everything from home tables to tournament venues. I've rejected about 8% of first deliveries this year due to color mismatches against lighting conditions or spec sheets, so these are lessons learned the hard way.
Step 1: Understand the Simonis Color Range & Why It Matters
Simonis offers a standard palette of about a dozen colors (depending on the line—860 vs. 760). The names are fairly straightforward: Tournament Blue, Electric Blue, Green, Red, Camel, Burgundy, Black, and so on. But don't let the names fool you. The actual appearance on a table under lighting is where the nuance lives.
Here's what I've found, based on specs and field observation (as of Q1 2025):
- Tournament Blue (860 series): The standard for professional play. It's not just a color—it's a contrast standard. The blue allows players to see the white cue ball clearly against the cloth and the colored object balls. This isn't marketing speak; it's built into tournament specifications.
- Electric Blue (760 series): Brighter, slightly more "pop." This is a personal favorite for home tables or bars where aesthetics are prioritized. But—and this is a big but—it can wash out under harsh overhead lighting. I've seen installations where it looks almost cyan under fluorescent tubes. Not great.
- Green / Traditional Green: The old-school look. Green is the original color of billiards cloth, going back to the 19th century (when cloth was dyed green to mimic grass). It's timeless, but it's not the best for contrast in modern lighting. If you go green, make sure your lighting is warm (2700-3000K), not cool.
- Camel / Tan / Beige: Popular in home game rooms and bars. It hides chalk dust better than darker colors (which is a practical consideration). But the contrast is lower. Players with 20/20 vision won't notice; older players or those with vision issues might find it harder to track the cue ball.
- Red, Maroon, Burgundy: Bold choices. I've seen these in high-end private clubs. They look rich if the room has proper lighting. But they can make the balls look muted—especially the red object ball, which almost disappears against a red cloth. Not ideal for competitive play.
- Black (760 series): Striking, but almost impractical. Chalk shows immediately. The cue ball contrast is fine, but color balls can be hard to distinguish. I've only recommended black for display tables that aren't played on seriously.
My honest take: If you're a pool hall operator or running tournaments, Tournament Blue is the safe bet. It's the industry standard for a reason. If you're doing a custom home room, Electric Blue or Green can look fantastic—but you need to manage lighting expectations.
Step 2: Match the Color to Your Lighting (This is Where People Screw Up)
This is the step that keeps me up at night (not really, but you get the point). The most common defect I see isn't the cloth itself—it's the color looking completely different than the swatch under the customer's actual lighting.
I went back and forth between recommending Tournament Blue and Electric Blue for a client in 2023. The swatch looked great in my office. But when the installer sent photos under the client's new LED fixtures (which were 5000K daylight bulbs), the Electric Blue looked washed out and almost teal. The client rejected it. We had to reorder. That was a $2,200 mistake (cloth + labor) because we didn't verify lighting first.
Here's the checklist I use now:
- Know your light temperature. Warm (2700-3000K) makes blues look deeper and greens look richer. Cool (4000-5000K) makes blues look brighter and greens look slightly yellow-green. Daylight (5000K+) is harsh and can wash out lighter colors.
- Get a physical sample. Simonis swatches are available from most distributors. Hold the swatch against the table and under your actual light. Not a photo. Not a screenshot. Physical.
- Check at different times of day. If the room has windows, the color will look different at noon vs. 8 PM. I had a client complain that their "Tournament Blue" looked "more purple" in the evening. It was ambient daylight coming in through a skylight. We added blackout curtains. Problem solved.
- Consider chalk color. Blue cloth with blue chalk is fine. Green cloth with green chalk is fine. But try using white chalk on blue cloth—it looks terrible and shows dust. Dark cloth with light chalk = messy look. Match your chalk to your cloth or go neutral (tan/beige chalk).
Pro tip (from experience): If you're specifying for a multi-table venue, pick one color and stick with it. I rejected an installation where the client ordered "Electric Blue" for 8 tables but from two different dye lots. Under the same lights, three tables looked slightly different. That's a consistency issue. Always order enough cloth from the same production batch for a room.
Step 3: Decide Between 860 and 760 (Weight Matters)
Simonis 860 is the standard for tournament play. It's a 75/25 wool/nylon blend, woven tighter, and has a slightly slower speed than 760. It's the cloth you see on most professional tables.
Simonis 760 is a 70/30 wool/nylon blend. It's a bit softer, plays faster, and usually costs slightly less. I see it more in home tables and bars where players want a faster game.
Color availability matters here: Not all colors are available in both series. Tournament Blue is available in 860 (the classic) and 760 (though the shade is called "Tournament Blue" in both, the texture makes it look slightly different). If you need a specific color, check the Simonis spec sheets for which series it's available in.
Here's my rule of thumb:
- For competitive play or resale to a serious player: 860 in Tournament Blue.
- For home use or bars where speed is prized: 760 in any color, but preferably not black or red (due to contrast issues).
- If you're buying for a client and need durability: 860 is more resistant to wear based on my observations. I've seen 760 tables start showing fuzz after 3 years of heavy use, while 860 tables looked fine at 5 years.
Step 4: Check the Rail & Pocket Alignment (A Detail Most People Miss)
Here's a subtle one: the color of the cloth affects how the balls look when they hit the rail. Darker cloths (black, maroon) make the balls seem to "disappear" into the rail pocket—especially in low light. Lighter cloths (Tournament Blue, green) provide better visual contrast at the pocket opening.
I had a case where a club installed black Simonis 760 on their tables. The owner loved the look. But regular players complained they couldn't see the 8-ball clearly at the pocket in the corners during evening league play. We ended up installing small LED strip lights under the rails to improve visibility. That was an extra $400 per table they hadn't budgeted.
Step 5: Don't Forget the Cleaner (X1)—It Changes Color Longevity
This feels like a sales pitch, but it's practical: if you're investing in Simonis cloth, especially a lighter color like Tournament Blue or Electric Blue, you need to clean it properly. Regular vacuuming helps. But spills, chalk dust, and body oils will darken the cloth over time—and unevenly.
Simonis X1 cleaner (specifically designed for their cloth) does a noticeably better job than generic cleaners. I ran a blind test in Q2 2024 with our maintenance team: same table, same cloth (Electric Blue), same stain (soda spill). X1 removed the stain completely. Generic carpet cleaner left a residue that showed up under UV light. On a $600+ piece of cloth, the $15 cleaner is worth it.
Note on color fading: All cloth fades over time if exposed to direct sunlight. Simonis 860 and 760 are both dyed to resist fading better than cheaper cloth (per Simonis's technical data, which I've verified against tracking over 4 years). But I've seen colors shift after 2-3 years in rooms with large south-facing windows. If you're installing in a sun-drenched room, go with a darker color (Camel, Green) or install UV-filtering window film. Tournament Blue will fade to a grayish-blue if baked in sunlight daily.
Common Mistakes & What to Avoid
Mistake 1: Going Too Dark for Practicality
Black looks amazing in photos. In a dimly lit bar, it makes the table look like a black hole. Players can't see the balls. Chalk shows immediately. Unless you have perfect lighting, avoid black, especially for 760 (which is softer and fuzzier, making the dust more visible).
Mistake 2: Mismatching Dye Lots
I mentioned this above, but it's worth repeating: if you order cloth for 4 tables, order all at once from the same supplier. Dye lots can vary slightly between production cycles. I rejected an installation in 2024 (for a venue) where two tables had cloth from different lots—the difference was subtle but visible under the same lights. The vendor had to re-stretch those two tables at their cost. That's $600 in labor and 2 days of table downtime.
Mistake 3: Ignoring the Rail Cloth Color
Some people match rail cloth to playing surface cloth. Some people make the rail cloth a darker shade for contrast. Neither is wrong, but pick one and be consistent. If you play surface is Tournament Blue and the rails are black, it looks intentional. If the rails are a slightly different blue (mismatched dye lots), it looks cheap.
Mistake 4: Not Ordering Extra Cloth
Simonis cloth is sold by the yard. For a standard 7' or 8' table, you need 1 piece (approx. 3' x 6.5'). For a 9' table, you might need 2 pieces (for the playing surface and rails). Always order 10-15% extra for waste and mistakes. I've seen installers run short by 6 inches and have to order a whole new piece, paying rush shipping. Not worth the headache.
Mistake 5: Assuming All Distributors Carry All Colors
Not all Simonis distributors stock every color. Tournament Blue is common. Electric Blue is less common. Maroon is rare. Before you finalize your design, call your distributor and ask what's in stock. Lead times for custom orders can be 2-4 weeks (per my experience in Q1 2025). Plan accordingly.
Final Thoughts (Not a Summary, Just a Reminder)
The Simonis cloth color you choose isn't just about looks—it affects gameplay, maintenance, and customer satisfaction. Tournament Blue is the safest bet for commercial or tournament use. Electric Blue and Green work well in home rooms with proper lighting. Dark colors are a risk unless you're prepared with supplemental lighting and frequent cleaning.
And for the love of all that is good in billiards—get a physical swatch under your actual lights before ordering. That single step saves more re-dos than any other advice I can give you.
If you're still unsure, start with Tournament Blue in 860. It's the standard that professional players expect, and it holds up well over time. You can always change it next time (which, with Simonis 860, is typically 5-7 years for commercial use).